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SeeMeCNC makes some great printers, but lets be real, the EZStruder is less than ideal. Throwing on an E3D Titan makes your printer more accurate, easier to maintain, less prone to jamming, more versatile, and just looks cooler. This simple plate will allow you to mount a Titan seamlessly and without any permanent modification to your printer. Below is the step by step guide to getting your SeeMeCNC printer running with a Titan. It covers Everything you need to know from the hardware to the firmware. By the end you will be ready to print. All of this was tested and done on a Rostock Max V2, but it should work on any system that uses the EZStruder. The firmware numbers will be correct regardless of which printer you're running. If you use a slicer that uses EEPROM you will have to make the EEPROM match your firmware.
Printing the plate is the easiest part. Any ABS or PLA preset will do just fine. I did mine in PLA at 200 Micron layers printing at 50 mm/s with 27% hexagonal infill. My bed adhesive was Wolfbite Nano by Airwolf with a bed temp around 60 degrees C. If for some reason your printer needs more space, the bottom clip function in your slicer will fix that easily without having to do a complete redesign. Now to put all this together you will need the following:
2x 6-32x1inch machine screws and matching wing nuts (I used some 6-32x2.5inch screws and nuts I had sitting around)
1x Screwdriver for whatever style screw you get. I used a Philips #2
1x Allen wrench set (I believe mine is SAE)
1x Printed Adapter Plate
1x E3D Titan Extruder
You will also need to plug in your printers USB cable and have a copy of Arduino 1.0.6 . In Arduino, you will need to select tools, scroll down to boards and select the Arduino Mega 2560 or Mega ADK as shown in the screenshot above. Going into the preferences menu under the file bar and selecting "display line numbers" is also incredibly helpful.
You will also need the firmware and USB drivers for your printer which are available here https://www.seemecnc.com/pages...
Now that we have what we need, lets put this all together. This is super easy and should only take around an hour, maybe 2.
1) Turn off your printer and unscrew all the screws on your stock extruder. The main shell will come off and you will be left with the drive gear.
2) Remove the drive gear set screw with your Allen wrench set.
3) Assemble your new Titan extruder as instructed on their wiki. Here is the link to do so. http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wik...(make sure the spacing is good for your drive gear as they specify in their assembly guide.
4) Take the Titan and fit it to the adapter plate. (there will be slop. this is by design. It makes it way easier to install and will not affect performance.)
5) Screw the sandwiched parts to the stepper motor.
6) Take your 6-32 screws and use them to secure the bottom piece of the plate. (f you choose to do so, now is a great time to put in a sound dampener. You can print up something in ninja flex or do the easier option which is to just paint the lower part of the adapter plate with rubber cement on the back.)
7) Connect your new or old bowden tube to the new extruder and hotend. (CONGRATS you just finished the mechanical side of things now on to modding the firmware to run the new extruder properly.)
8) Connect your printer to your computer with the printer powered on.
9) Open Arduino and double check that your board setting is set to "Arduino Mega 2560 or Mega ADK".
10) Unzip your firmware folder and go into Repetier. Scroll until you see the Repetier file with the Arduino symbol next to it. Under file type it will say Arduino file (see picture).
11) Open the aforementioned file and go to the "Configuration.h" tab
12) Go to line 167 in Configuration.h And change the number to "416.96031". You can also change the comment line to say Titan instead of EZ Struder. I find this nice for trouble shooting.
13) Scroll down to line 195 and set the condition to "false", otherwise the extruder will feed the wrong direction.
14) You have the option to change lines 203 and 206 if you want. (I never have and have never had an issue using matter control as my slicer.)
15) Save the file so your changes are recognized and select the upload button in the top left of the screen (the arrow button)
16) Your printer screen should go blank for a moment then come back up like it does when you first turn on the printer.
17) Check that your Z Calibration is still good and change any EEPROM settings in your slicer to match your firmware. (only applies to certain slicers).
18) You're done! there is no 18! If you have issues with over or under extrusion refer to the Titan wiki again and use their formula to calculate your steps per mm on line 167. The number I gave is the perfected Value for my Rostock Max V2.
Congratulations on Hacking your printer! If you have any questions let me know in the comments. If you like this design and instructions let me know and I will post up how to convert your hot end to an E3D V6.