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SummaryHand and Foot is a card game played with 6 decks of cards. As such, we generally divide the cards into two draw piles and one discard pile. I have a 20" lazy susan built into my kitchen table which makes it great for playing card games, so I decided to create a hand and foot card organizer to fit my lazy susan. If you are a Hand and Foot game player, you will find this project worth the time and effort to print. If you are not a gamer, you still may find some useful tidbits on printing techniques and such that you can use on other projects.Print SettingsRafts: NoSupports: NoResolution: .3mmInfill: rectilinear 45 degreesNotes: I am using a Da Vinci 1.0 printer updated to use Repetier .91 firmware and Simplify3D on a MAC to create the GCODE. If you use Slic3R, which a lot of people do, you can get by with 2 perimeters. If using Simplify3D, I would recommend 4 to 5 perimeters to prevent gaps from forming at the intersection of the walls.Post-PrintingFor a Glossy smooth finish, use an Acetone Vapor BathI like to give all my ABS pieces a nice shiny look, so I use an empty paint can purchased from Home Depot lined with paper towels held in place with magnets. The paint cans from Home Depot make a perfect vapor chamber and come with a lid that seals in the vapor. I soak the paper towels with Acetone just enough to wet them all the way thru. I apply the Acetone with a 60ml syringe which works well to wet the towel evenly. I cut the paper towels to fit the bottom of the can as well. I also picked up a 5 1/2" glass mirror at the dollar store and trimmed the plastic edges so that the mirror can fit into the paint can. It had suction cups on the bottom which I removed and inserted stiff wires to be able to lift the mirror out of the paint can. I also line the top of the mirror with aluminum foil to keep any melted plastic from sticking to the mirror. The mirror just provides a nice flat surface for the aluminum foil. To cut the aluminum foil to fit, I place it on the paint can lid and run my thumbnail around the recess for a perfect cut.How I Designed ThisI started with a card holder by bdub_24 that I found here on Thingverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:854289). I added playing card insignias (Spade, Club, Heart, and Diamond) on each of 4 surfaces. Then I designed a set of 3 trays to hold the card holders. Because the overall size of the completed tray is too large for my 200 x 200 bed, I broke the card tray into 3 ABS pieces which I then glue together with PVC cement. On the bottom of the card tray are indentations to attach rubber feet. Each of the three card holders takes approximately 2 hours to print. After printing, I place them in a cold Acetone vapor chamber and let them cook for exactly 2 hours which smooths the surface imperfections and gives it a nice glossy finish. I set a timer to make sure I remove them on time, otherwise they will melt too much. After gluing the 3 card trays together, I place the completed set into a larger cold Acetone vapor chamber for 2 hours. I have to use a different container for this as the tray is too large to fit into the paint can. Each card holder is glued into the card tray after the Acetone treatment has had time to harden back up, typically 10 to 12 hours later. I should mention that the large surface area of these parts makes it particularly difficult for the ABS to adhere to the heated bed, so I use an ABS puck to spread a thin film of ABS onto the bed before printing. I simply squirt a tablespoon or so onto a COLD bed with my syringe and run the ABS puck over the Acetone just before each print. After every 3rd print, I usually clean the bed by scraping the bed with a razor blade and maybe adding a bit of Acetone to loosen it as I clean it up. A clean surface gives a much nicer print and the thin layer of ABS makes the parts stick to the glass bed better than anything else I have tried. The completed print can even be removed while the bed is still hot. I scrub the residue from the bottom of the part with a wire brush. I should also mention that I am using a Da Vinci 1.0 printer updated to use Repetier .91 firmware and Simplify3D on a MAC to create the GCODE. Slic3R repaired some open faces in my STL files that Simplify3D could not fix, so I first saved the STL file from Slic3R before using it in Simplify3D. Without increasing the infill and using only 2 perimiters like Slic3R, Simplify3D could not print the tray without leaving gaps in areas near the intersection of walls. Slic3R lays down a solid rectilinear layer before laying down perimeters on top of gaping holes in honeycomb infill and can print with only 2 perimiters. But by increasing the number of external perimiters from 2 to 5, Simplify3D renders just as well. Something to consider if you are thinking about using Simplify3D.