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Description
New design, will gain about 20mm of Z height, will not work with the factory board. You can use the your standard switch end stops but you will have to modify the factory Y endstop holder. If you want to go with the TMC with sensorless homing there are clips to go on the rails to keep the carriage bashing into other parts. You will need to use 8mm x 12mm x 10mm bushings, link here https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod... , you will want to run a 12mm bit in holes after printing to prepare for the bushings to slide in. Take caution when doing this as you will need to have them aligned, best way is to put rod thourgh carriage with a ushing on each side on rod of Carriage and tap them in with a bigger heavier object that has a 8mm bore, like a slide hammer, take caution as to hard might crack part. This will work with E3D V6 Style Hotends and uses BLTouch style probe. Uses the factory rods, will also need a new belt for the X axis and will reuse the Y axis bets, will need 20tooth pulley and possibly trim you stepper motor shaft. You will need various size m3 bolts, not sure if you will be able to reuse factory bolts since i just upgrade mine. As far as the layer cooling fans, the length by the file name is the lentgh from bottom of fan to bottom of nozzle, so yu will want to print one close to where you think you need or print them all and test to you find the right height, i have needed fifferent sizes for different brand nozzles. You will also need to download my x tensioner for this too, link https://pinshape.com/items/635... . The fan for the hotend on back might need to be trimmed (look in photos) as not to hit the Hot Bed Carriage on the back, or you can just run a thinner fan. Now mind you when you print that you want to use enough walls to be stron and good amount of infill, I did mine 4 walls thick .4mm, .2mm layer height and 8 top and bottom, 50% grid infill. And this is the most important part of all, if you want everything to be aligned nicely when done printing make sure that you have the scaling/dimensions right with the prints and also that you don't have a skew on any axis as you will get prints that will just simple not line up or will cause binding afterwards. Everything should print without supports, as long as you can bridge a 13mm gap on the left Y carriage, the X axis carriage will need supports though but not much. I hope you all enjoy, i went through 3 rolls of filament perfecting this. Included my OctoKlipper printer.cfg as txt file, use as a reference, might not work exactly for yours.
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