Ultimaker 3

Very easy to use printer. Good results.

in my opinion, theres a lot of cool features on an Ultimaker 3 (print quality, print speed,material flexibility, good hardware are examples ), but the one i like mostI really like the fact that the ultimaker 3 is really reliable, i can just print and go somewhere else and forget about it until the print is done.

La calidad de las capas y adherencia son muy buenas al igual que las dimensiones de las piezas salen muy bien

I could recommend this printer! Much better than Ultimaker 2

Straight out of the box and almost instantly ready to use. This is my first 3D printer so I didn't know all the tricks and traps but the printer and CURA software made things a breeze. The self leveling build plate is excellent. I've been printing in PLA straight onto the glass build plate with no need for glue. The printer is quiet most of the time. Some prints cause the printer head to move in a way that almost makes it sing which does make it audible but not annoyingly loud. 

My only gripe with the printer is the spool roll holder is made for 750gm rolls and although it can handle aftermarket spools they fit on tight which makes it hard for them to spin and unwind the PLA as it prints. Asides from that its excellent

When I first set up the printer, I was very impressed with the results that I got printing the test dog that comes with the software on the mini micro SD card. However, after downloading different models from the internet, I wasn't very happy with the results ie:- not getting as smooth a finish as the test dog and quite often not getting a complete finish on rounded corners etc. I then started experimenting ie:- slowing down the build speed, heating up the filament temperature and also raising the temperature of the bed because, quit often, a half built model would sometimes come loose. Overall, all of these experiments failed to achieve the results I was after. Then I found, after reading as much information as I could understand that there was a filament flow rate setting that was normally hidden in the setup procedures of the Ultimaker 3.  Not only generally hidden but could not be accessed until the brim had started to print. So I then started experimenting again, gradually increasing the % of fill from default 100% to finally settling on 200%. GREAT!!! I'm now getting excellent results on everything I print!

I was new to it, and it was very expensive.  But I wanted a printer that would make successful prints right out-of-a-box, no matter how novice I was ... (which was VERY). 

This way, I wouldn't just "give up" on 3D printing ;-).  

Besides printing flex (TPU), everything just worked (mostly PLA).  Still need to dive into the TPU thing though, but I'm sure I'll figure it out ;-).

quite sturdy, it survived a 6000 km trip, a bit noisy and a whole lot of fun, recommended

ultimaker gives you access to many types of material. I’ve printed with poly carbonate, ABS, Nylon, wood and PLA, and i’m Always discovering new materials to play with. The duel nozzle allows use of a support, or printing with two different materials or colors. The cura software is first rate and really allows you to have control over everything, or for the most part fully automated. While the ultimaker filaments are awesome with their rf tags which enumerates to cura what filaments are loaded in the printer, they also make it easy to use 3rd party filaments providing many cura templates that are tuned for these filaments to print on the ultimaker. 

Support is pretty good  and I do like the changeable/modular print cores which allow you to use even more materials  

The printer is very expandable and reliable  highly recommend the ultimaker 3  Tiki God printed with ultimaker 3, using wood filament and stained.

Honestly, this is my first encounter with 3D printing, and I find this device to be sorely overpriced (yet capable).  Grain of salt rule applies here, most of my opinions have been gleaned from research rather than experience.  There are however some obvious design flaws, such as the leads which connect to the print head to provide capacitance for the automatic levelling are placed in such a manner as to facilitate bending right at the solder joint, which leads to breaking.   The enclosure  is pointless as it doesn't provide a full wrap, negating (mostly) heat retention attempts. prices for parts (such as the nozzles) are comparable to the price for an entire printer; simply adding 0.4mm nozzles is just shy of an entire creatality printer. I've given a thumbs up, but unless you are interested in something that is almost good, I would give this a pass.