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SummaryDouble Bowden direct drive extruder. I designed it for the E3D Cyclops/Chimera but it can be used with any dual extruder setup. EDIT 6/6/16 Added new version of the idlers. These new idlers have support for the bearings on both sides so it can't bend over and lose clamping pressure on the filament. There's a 0.4mm thick support material built in that you must cut out. No support needed from your slicer. Use a washer on BOTH sides of the roller bearing. Low profile nut of course. The flat side of the idlers should face towards the motors. Slightly raised sides towards the front. Put the nut on the motor side.InstructionsThis assembly uses all the same parts as this design, except the screws that hold it together might be different lengths, and some things you'll need two of, of course. Like the idler bearings for example, and the MK8 drive gears. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:760444 This uses two NEMA17 motors and two MK8 drive gears. The whole thing is easiest to assemble using M3 threaded rod cut to length that goes all the way through the motors and the front and back plates, with nuts on the ends. Cut the rods to about 75mm long. You need to remove all four screws from the motors and screw the threaded rods through the motors with the ends sticking out both the front and back to attach these printed parts. It's made to slip over the top of the aluminum frame of a Prusa i3 metal. If you need some other way to mount the motors to your printer let me know and maybe I can throw something together. The holes at the bottom are for the Bowden tubing retainers that come with a Cyclops extruder. On my printer the holes printed the perfect size, but if your printer does NOT like to print holes smaller than the model slightly they might be a bit loose. You could tighten them up by putting some pipe tape, or even electrical tape around the threads. The front retainer piece slightly pinches the threads to hold them tight so you don't have to screw them in place and mess up the threads. The idlers use a 5x10x4 roller bearing and a short M5 cap head screw. I recommend small washers between the idler and the bearing because when you tighten the M5 screw the roller bearing might drag on the printed idler. Get thin washers, 10mm dia. The nut on the back MUST be low profile as well or it will run into the lip on the front of your motors. You may have to grind the end of the M5 screw flush with the nut as well. I did. The tensioners for the idlers are M4 screws with a spring on them and M4 nuts inserted into the recess at the top of the extruder body. Use this or another favorite mount for the Chimera/Cyclops. Any will do. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:603881 Message me with any questions! EDIT: I recomend printing the back part that slips over your printer frame on it's SIDE, not standing up. If you print it standing up the grain of the layers makes it very weak and I dropped the assembly and it broke along the motors edge. If I'd have printed it on it's side the layers would be perpendicular to the direction of the strain. Even though there's that overhang in the back. Just use support material. There won't be much. If you set your slicer to leave 0.8mm of space between the model and support it should pop out easily.